Barry Whitehouse

Here's the decal inscription on a fly rod I built for the Connecticut Fly Fishermen's Association raffle. It's a waterslide decal I designed on my PC, and emailed to Decal Connection (decalconnection.com) for them to create. It gives the rod a professional touch, and cost $2.50. I applied it directly to the rod blank, let it dry overnight, and applied one thin coat of Flex Coat Lite rod finish.

This is a 9ft 6wt 4pc Hook & Hackle travel fly rod. Using Gudebrod medium brown thread (#541) with dark green inlay (#5896) gives it an old-fashion look. I use Flex Coat Color Preserver for best results.

On a green blank, you can get an old-fashioned look by using Gudebrod Medium Brown (#541) thread with a dark green (#5896) inlay, using Flex Coat Color Preserver.

Here's an example of the difference between using color preserver, and not using it. The original bare thread (Gudebrod Garnet #206) is on the right. In the middle is the same thread, with only rod wrapping finish (Flex Coat Lite). On the left is the same thread with Flex Coat Color Preserver and Flex Coat Lite rod finish.

This is the fish measurement mark I put at the 20" mark on my rods. Call me an optimist!

Here's my latest project. Thread is Gudebrod Garnet with CP, and metallic silver trim. PacBay handle with removable fighting butt, Hook & Hackle IM6 blank and rod case. Bring on the stripers!

This color combination (matte black, garnet and silver) reminds me of my days as a DJ, so I call this combo a Tuxedo Wrap. Thread is Gudebrod Garnet (with CP and FC Lite). Visible is 20" fish measurement mark (silver band). I learned how to create the thin silver band (at end of hook keeper wrap) from Ken Preston's web site video. Grey fabric is the rod bag. I sewed it, with a lot of instruction from my wife. (not that it was difficult, I just needed a lot of instruction!)

Alignment dots make it easier to assemble a rod. It also prevents twisting/stressing the sections when aligning. On the female ferrules, I applied a layer of Flex Coat Lite over the wrap (let it cure), drew the dots with a silver gel pen, coated with Krylon Workable Fixatif (let it dry), then the final coat of FC Lite. On the male ferrules, I marked the dots on the bare blank (leaving space between male and female dots for future rod wear), applied fixative and I coat of FC Lite. The silver trim is a 2-turn band, learned from Ken Preston's web site video. Thread color is Gudebrod Garnet, with CP.

Here's a custom Hook & Hackle IM6 fly rod I built, and purchsed the rod tube and engraving from REC Components.

Here's a custom St. Croix SCV fly rod I built, and purchased the rod tube and engraving from REC components.

Custom SCV with winding check, regular thread wraps without CP, hook holder, 12" measure (gold inlay) & inscription

Custom built on Hook & Hackle blank with St. Croix handle and reel seat

Here's the best reason to build fishing rods - to see that special person catch his first fish on a fly!

This is the best part of building a fishing rod - seeing that special person catch a fish on it!

This nickel silver butt cap (St. Croix reel seat) was monogrammed by REC (where I purchased it), to personalize it for my son. Many jewelers can also do this type of engraving. Get the cap engraved before bonding it to the seat.

Here's the St. Croix cloth-covered PVC rod case I bought to go with the spinning rod I built for my daughter. Using "fabric and craft" paint, I personalized it with her nickname and graphic.

Here's a guide wrap I did on my son's fly rod, using dark green NCP thread. Note the solid look of the green. Using NCP thread for the wrap hides the tag ends of the gold metallic thread inlay.

After a practice round on a scrap blank, I did my first diamond wrap (4 axis) for my daughter's matte black spinning rod. It's hard to tell in this photo, but the diamond wraps are done over a base of dark blue thread with no CP. Also, the dark blue (no CP) threads that separate the metallic blue and silver threads give it some depth.

Here's an AmTak blue zirconia guide, with metallic blue/dark blue (no CP)/metallic silver wraps. Without CP, the dark blue threads take on a jewel-like look. Without CP, the tag ends of the metallic inlay would show, so I had to pull the tag ends beneath the metallic threads, instead of beneath the blue threads (more challenging, but worth the effort).

Here's one of the guide wraps from the SCV fly rod I built for myself. Understated but classy! I did not use CP on the (regular thread) brown threads, so the wrap really blends in with the rod blank. However, without CP, the tag ends of the metallic inlay show through the brown thread(not shown), so I tried to place them in a less visible area. You can see that the guide feet show through the brown thread, as well. Some people like the look of the tag ends showing, some don't.

My daughter gets this rod, the third I've built. It's a St. Croix SCII 6' 6" light power fast action spinning rod, with AmTak blue zirconia guides, and blue/silver wraps.

Here's the second rod I built (this one's for me!). It's St. Croix SCV (Legend Elite) 9ft 6wt 4piece, with REC (St. Croix) handle and reel seat. I know my rods aren't as fancy as those of more experienced rod builders, but I'm please with the results I'm getting.

After taking the Connecticut Fly Fishermen's Association's rod building class last winter, I built this 9ft 6wt 3piece for my son, using a Hook & Hackle IM6 blank, and REC (St. Croix) handle and reel seat.